Martoons

Revisiting a Papyrus Shop: Incredible Islamic Art

By Enlightened Tourist (Real travel experiences from Egypt)

Papyrus Shop, Cairo, April 13/22. After two weeks exploring Egypt and mostly Cairo, Islamic art has now become Enlightened Tourist’s (ET) theme. And the wonders are many in an Islamic-soaked Egypt. In today’s episode, ET is strolling along a main drag in Cairo killing time. Perfect prey for a papyrus shop tout. Sure enough moments later, ET finds himself seated comfortably in a nearby papyrus shop. The tout quietly slips back out to the street to resume recruiting and centre stage is taken over by the shop’s successful owner/artist (SOA).

His work is a cut above the other papyrus shops that ET has been coaxed into previously. SOA flips through a pile of the usual pharaohs, sphinxes and pyramids while ET talks about his own newly discovered interest in Islamic art. Mounted on the gallery wall directly in ET’s sight line is a brilliant, sparkly poster-sized papyrus work. Its centrepiece is excerpts of wisdom from the Koran stylishly and densely packed into most of the piece. SOA notes that Egyptian artists don’t like blank space.

He goes on to explain the meaning of some phrases within the piece and translates them into English. ET is genuinely impressed. He actually finds himself interested enough to inquire about the price of the work, purely out of curiosity and with no intention to purchase.

SOA: “What would you pay for it?”

ET: “Please suggest a price.”

The price stated is way too high.

ET: “I will not buy it sir but that is an incredible piece. Definitely my favourite. You know If I did happen to own that and had it hanging in my house, I would want many people to share it. I might even display it for a while and then give it to someone else. That’s what it’s all about isn’t it? Spreading the great art around for others to enjoy.”

SOA: “You have an excellent attitude toward art. Tell you what …” He begins rolling the piece up and packing it into a cardboard tube. “I will give you this…” And he hands over the tube.

ET has instantaneously waded into a quagmire. He realizes he shouldn’t have even asked about the price.

ET: “Sir, I cannot take this. You must keep it and sell it.”

SOA is intransigent. “No, it’s yours. Take it.”

ET: “OK then here is a promise I will do as I said; I will display this masterpiece in my house for a while and then pass it to someone else to admire…”

The commitment doesn’t seem to penetrate as deeply as the first time, and the jovial vibe and camaraderie between ET and SOA subtly changes. ET doesn’t know why but the mood fluctuation is palpable.

SOA: “Tell you what…” He gets out a note pad and jots down some figures. “I will charge you only the price of my actual labour spent on this piece and its materials, ink and so on.”

ET: (finding his grip on the tube loosening, almost fumbling it) “How much would that be?” He reviews the note pad. The price is still considerably too high. “Sorry sir, I cannot buy this as I explained. I don’t carry much cash around.”

SOA: “I really want you to have this. From whatever cash you have with you now, how much could you pay?”

ET: “Two hundred.”

SOA: “Two hundred US dollars?”

ET: “Pounds. Egyptian pounds.” (About one 18^th of the value of US dollars.)

SOA decisively repossesses the tube and expediently begins unpacking it. Simultaneously, our tout from the start of this story has reappeared and is escorting a pair of new tourists into the shop.

ET quickly and nimbly exits. Out on the sidewalk he thinks back through the episode looking for lessons learned. He keys in on the moment where the artist had actually handed the piece over and said “You have an excellent attitude about art. I would like to give you this.” ET wonders, If I’d just kept my mouth shut and gracefully departed the store at that point, I might have succeeded in getting a great piece of art absolutely free.

Might have because he also wonders if the whole drama may have been a well-rehearsed one. (Cairo, Egypt, April 25/22.)

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Editor’s note: Hi martoons fan! I am currently traveling in Egypt for a month or so. If you’ve ever wanted to go there, and you’ve got the opportunity now, do it! There’s basically no covid here, although a few people still wear masks, and for Canadians the prices are cheap. For example you can get a meal for $6 or $7, and a cheap hotel for about $35. And one other thing: There’s hardly any tourists here, although the trickle is increasing. -Happy trails, Marty West, editor/publisher of martoons.